One of the many great things about the world of watch enthusiasts and their collections is that it’s all incredibly personal. No two collections, no matter how small or large, are exactly the same; and even for those who do share some watches in common, the reasons behind their acquisition can vary wildly. But if there’s one thing you can rest assured of, it’s that all watch collectors have a few ideas about the next piece they want to add to their coffers.
So we recently spoke to five noted watch enthusiasts — all interesting and accomplished gentlemen in their own right — about exactly that: the watches that currently sit at the top of their to-do list. They each selected both a vintage and modern piece, and no matter how unique or obscure, all can be found for sale on eBay (for more on the online marketplace’s new Authenticity Guarantee, step right this way).
We also asked these collectors what sparked their love of watches, and surprisingly — or perhaps not, considering one noted brand’s very famous tagline — each one referred to a love of watches being passed down through their family. So if you’re ready to add to your own collection or pick up the very first heirloom that will spark a passion that lasts generations, there’s no better place to start than eBay.
Otto Bell
Otto Bell is a British documentary filmmaker and Chief Creative Officer of an 80-person commercial studio in New York. His feature length film The Eagle Huntress was nominated for a BAFTA Award and his most recent work The Toxic Pigs Of Fukushima can be viewed on VICE News.
What made you a watch enthusiast and what are some of your earliest memories around watches?
“My father loves watches and passed the bug onto me. He has always likened winding a watch to starting a new day off right.”
What’s a vintage watch you desire and what makes it cool to you?
“I’m a sucker for looking up anything that does double duty: compass watches, pulsometers, reversos — any timepiece with a trick up the sleeve. Top of my watchlist would be the JLC Master Reveil Memovox. The portmanteau refers to the built-in alarm function that’s set via the upper crown at 2 o’clock. The whole inner disc rotates, including the branding, and the alarm has more of a school-bell chime, as opposed to the buzz that characterized earlier models.”
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Memovox Alarm Manual 36mm Steel Q1448170
What’s a contemporary watch you desire and why?
“Here I’d recommend the Maratac Mid Sized Pilot from personal experience. It’s got a bulletproof Miyota movement and has done the job for me everywhere from the hot desert of Mali to the frozen mountains of Mongolia. It’s a true workhorse: unassuming to the point of having no visible naming while including an oversized onion tucked away at 4 o’clock so as not to snag. The straightforward numerals, bright lume and seconds hand are ideal for timing out shots and wild track sound at all hours.”
Maratac Pilot Mid 39mm
Matt Hranek
A writer, photographer and bon vivant, Hranek is the founder of WM Brown magazine and author of both A Man and His Watch and A Man and His Car, as well as an upcoming tome on his tipple of choice, the Negroni.
What made you a watch enthusiast and what are some of your earliest memories around watches?
“Hands down my father. He loved watches. It started at a very young age.”
What’s a vintage watch you desire and what makes it cool to you?
“Rolex 5508. For me this is the ultimate Rolex submariner. Also Bond wore it. It is the first sub Rolex produced where there are no crown guards. It is a watch made with purpose and in my opinion it is sexy as hell.”
Rolex Submariner 5508
What’s a contemporary watch you desire and why?
“Vacheron Constantin Historiques American 1921 in 18k. This was a driving watch Vacheron originally made in 1921. The face is slightly askew, with the 12 pivoted to the right so you can read the time in an unobstructed way while driving (with two hands on the wheel). It’s a sexy, purposeful watch.”
Vacheron Constantin Historiques American 1921 Rose Gold Ref. 82035/000
John Munson
Founder of global travel company The Roving Hotel, John Munson is also an avid collector of timepieces both old and new as well as a contributing watch columnist for InsideHook.
What made you a watch enthusiast and what are some of your earliest memories around watches?
“My dad wore a Rolex Day-Date 1803, which he had inherited from his father who bought it new in Mexico in 1966. I would sneak into his dresser drawer as a kid just to try it on my wrist; I remember it seemed so heavy at the time. That very watch now takes pride of place in my own collection and I hope to one day have a son just so I can pass it down to him.”
What’s a vintage watch you desire and what makes it cool to you?
“A Gallet Multichron. While not the most well-known Swiss brand, Gallet actually dates back to 1466, making it arguably the oldest clockmaker still around. Their pilots watches are legendary — Harry Truman wore one and commissioned them to be made for his Air Force officers, and they were super popular with men who flew in WW2. I’m looking for one from the ‘60s, as my grandfather had one that I wore through middle school and high school and have always kicked myself for losing. It has a Valjoux 72 movement which also powered the Rolex Daytona of the time, so it’s like a cousin of the 6263 — possibly my favorite watch of all time — but costs about 1/20th as much.”
Gallet MultiChron Pilot Chronograph Stainless Steel Valjoux 72
What’s a contemporary watch you desire and why?
“I’m really digging a lot of these heritage releases brands have been coming up with recently. Maybe that’s cheating a bit as they’re styled after vintage watches, but you get the best of both worlds: that classic look with updated movements and materials. Also, with vintage chronograph prices being where they are, they’re also more approachable for people who love a certain watch but may have been priced out of the older versions. The TAG Heuer Heritage Autavia is the first neo-vintage watch that really stopped me in my tracks when I first saw it, and it’s still something I’d love to own without having to be so precious as wearing an original.”
TAG Heuer Autavia Heritage Chronograph
Ted Gushue
Ted Gushue is a lifestyle and automotive writer and photographer. He is editor in chief of Type7, Porsche’s print and digital daily magazine.
What made you a watch enthusiast and what are some of your earliest memories around watches?
“My father always owned and enjoyed very interesting watches. You don’t really think about it at the time when you are a kid, but it has an effect on you. The aesthetics of a 1675 GMT Rolex or a Breitling Navitimer start to feel natural somehow, and when you grow older they become the aesthetics you are drawn to in watches.”
What’s a vintage watch you desire and what makes it cool to you?
“I would love to own my father’s original 1675 GMT, but it’s not clear how I could track it down. He traded it in for something else many years ago.”
Rolex GMT Master 1675
What’s a contemporary watch you desire and why?
“I really love the modern Everose gold Rolexes. I find this to be a super elegant metal and it really makes a statement without being as flashy as yellow gold, if that makes sense.”
Rolex Yacht-Master 116655 18k Everose 40mm Black Oysterflex Bracelet
Zack Kurland
A Boston-based attorney, Zack Kurland is the founder of the Boston chapter of The Red Bar Group, a famed watch collectors community which meets regularly in non-pandemic times.
What made you a watch enthusiast and what are some of your earliest memories around watches?
“Growing up I remember being mesmerized by my great grandfather’s Waltham pocket watch — a very clean/crisp art deco style dial paired with Breguet-style blued hands and set into a yellow gold octagonal case that was topped with a sapphire cabochon in the winding crown. What was probably an everyday watch for my great grandfather in the 1920s and on, my dad only wore it for formal events when he would break out his tuxedo. Over a century since it was built, it now sits on my desk, where it still keeps good time. As the son of an advertising executive, I remember noticing product placement in movies and TV shows from an early age, most notably James Bond’s Submariner, Seikos and Seamasters.”
What’s a vintage watch you desire and what makes it cool to you?
“There are so many well-regarded manufacturers once you dive into the world of watches, however, when I really think vintage pieces, I consider Patek Phillipes from the 1950s and 1960s to be prime contenders. Simply because their Ref. 2526 has exploded in value recently, I’ve started hunting for the Ref. 2552 (also known as the “Disco Volante” or “Flying Saucer” because of its case shape). I am particularly drawn to the watch’s crown, which uses a double PP logo instead of the more recognizable Calatrava cross, and the caliber 12-600 movement, Patek’s legendary first automatic movement. With a 36mm case, this reference seems to be a great counterbalance to the popular trend for oversized watches over the last few years.”
1956 18k Gold Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref 2552 Automatic 12-600AT 36mm
What’s a contemporary watch you desire and why?
For a modern watch that is super cool while managing to truly fly under the radar, I absolutely love the F.P. Journe Elegante. The Elegante is a quartz-powered watch that actually stops running when you take it off, and automatically resets to show the correct time when you pick it back up to conserve battery life. At first glance the 48mm case size sounds huge, but this Journe wears smaller and lighter given the titanium, tonneau-shaped case. It doesn’t hurt that Journes have been seeing an uptick in value lately as well, but I think this watch is truly a go anywhere, do anything kind of watch. I could dress it up on a leather strap or work out with it on one of their rubber straps that seem to come in every color of the rainbow (though François-Paul, if you happen to be reading this, please bring back the Tiffany blue strap option!).
F.P. Journe Elegante Titanium 48mm Electromechanical Watch
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